"OLENO" supports people who enjoy running from the feet up. What goes on behind the scenes in the making of running socks from the city of socks
This fall, the Runtrip Store has just released their original socks, the Runtrip × OLENO 2Line Socks . These running socks feature the Runtrip logo and two lines that adorn the runner's feet.
The original socks are produced by the factory brand OLENO, which was founded 88 years ago by Showa Meriyasu in Koryo-cho, Nara Prefecture, the town that boasts the highest sock production in Japan.
With a philosophy of "always striving for the highest quality," the company creates socks that pursue comfort and functionality. The highly durable "Ultimate" model is popular among many runners.
In this article, we spoke to CEO Inoue Katsuaki and Product Development Manager Nomaru Iwao at the Showa Mokko factory about their passion for making socks and what goes on behind the scenes.
OLENO is a sock brand born in the city of socks.
--What is the story behind the launch of OLENO?
Inoue : We launched the OLENO brand in 2017, and prior to that we mainly produced tights and leggings as an OEM manufacturer. In order to deliver to high-end apparel brands that were mainly sold at department stores, many of our products required highly sophisticated techniques, such as creating patterns and expressions that required a little ingenuity to be highly fashionable. We continued to produce in pursuit of creating high-quality products, but as the times changed, we found ourselves in a difficult situation where our brand sales were declining.
Inoue : Many apparel brands have requested that we purchase at a lower price, and even if they ask us to give in, there are many areas where we cannot compromise. We have made efforts to provide high-quality products in order to sell, but it becomes more difficult to be particular with each reduction in cost. We were at a loss as to what consumers would think if we could not manufacture high-quality products even for luxury brand products.
In the midst of all this, we began to feel a sense of crisis that we needed to break away from OEM, and started thinking about starting a brand around 2014. We launched OLENO in 2017. Of all the products we had, we decided to create a sock brand because they can be worn regardless of the season.
-Why did you come up with the brand name OLENO?
Inoue : Originally, we registered the trademark " Oreno " in 1981 as the original brand name for men's tights. After that, major brands started selling similar products, and the demand for "Oreno" decreased, but we renewed the trademark, so the brand name remained. When we were starting up our socks brand, we were thinking of "I'll make what I like," and "Oreno" came to mind, so we rebranded and named it " OLENO ."
I've always loved nature, and I go camping two or three times a year. Sometimes I go to Okayama or Nagano, taking three to five hours by car. I grew up in the countryside, surrounded by rice fields and woods, and playing in nature was always nearby. With that background in mind, I decided to make socks for the outdoors.
Gear creation that brings out the best performance
--What are the characteristics of OLENO socks?
Inoue : We have gear that allows you to perform at your best in each situation. For example, for trail running, we have the "Ultimate" series. For those who want to enjoy it as a fun run, we offer the "Commodity" series and the "Run" series, which provide moderate support.
Inoue : We aim to create gear that will bring out the best in each individual's performance, so we order materials that are not normally used if it can improve performance, and we also offer products made from original materials.
-What prompted you to start developing socks for running?
Inoue : At first, we started making the product with the idea that "It would be nice to have a product like this." Then, by chance, we received an email from a trail runner, who had written some harsh criticism about the product, saying "You could do it a little more like this," and feedback such as "I wish the functions were more like this."
Inoue : It started with that person's inquiry, and we continued to keep in touch. Furthermore, one of his acquaintances was a trail runner who was transferred to Indonesia and living there while building a Japanese running community, and he also started giving us feedback on our products. He told me, "Be prepared for harsh criticism," so I was prepared to accept any criticism, and I incorporated their opinions.
We received a lot of advice on small details, such as "We want a better fit" and "We need stronger grip," and we worked repeatedly to incorporate their feedback into the product.
--It was a process of trial and error .
Inoue : It was only after repeating the prototypes that I realized that trail running requires features that are specific to that sport. Because you run continuously on uneven ground, it's important to have a tight fit that tightens your feet and a grip that gives you a sense of unity with the shoe.
Working with runners to create items
Inoue : There are many things about trail running that only trail runners can understand. We felt it would be better to learn from the people who use it, and so we started our current form of co-creation with runners. We created a team called the OLENO Athlete Club, and have them try out prototypes. Many people think about OLENO as if it were their own business, and send us feedback.
Inoue : Now, when trail running season begins, we set up booths at many competitions almost every weekend. Originally, I wasn't a runner, but after connecting with other trail runners, I started running and participating in more competitions.
--What are the challenges and rewards of creating OLENO products?
Nomaru : We are asked to do things that we hadn't even thought of, so we have to constantly think about what functions they have and how to make them. That's the difficult part, but I think it's also rewarding when we overcome it.
Nomaru : Actually, I started running after I started making OLENO socks, influenced by the trail runners around me, and in September of this year I challenged myself to a 110km race. Every day I feel it is important to learn for myself what runners experience.
--What is the process for making socks?
Inoue : First, we start with an idea of what materials and functions are needed for the purpose. We then think about who we want to use it for and arrange for the raw materials.
For example, for the Ultimate series, we wanted to make the strongest socks, so we chose a thin, strong material. We use CORDURA® brand fabric, but there are various threads, such as threads that contain 40% Cordura or threads that contain it together with wool. After much consideration, we thought that 100% Cordura would be better, so we arranged for it, but we were told, "We've never used 100% Cordura material in socks." Nevertheless, we chose 100% Cordura material and continued development.
Nomaru : By choosing these materials, we were able to create socks that are extremely durable. Even if you try to stretch the fabric, it's so durable that you can hardly pinch it.
Inoue : Furthermore, in the product development process, we consider where to apply pressure and where to loosen it, how tight it should be, whether to make it five-toed or round, and so on. Once production begins, we try on prototypes to check how they feel when worn, or we conduct demonstration experiments to verify their functionality. We continue to make improvements to the product, and once it is in its final form, we start full-scale production. It takes as little as two to three months from concept to sample to final completion. For some, it can take as long as three years.
Nomaru : At the factory, we use about 40 looms to make each product. The yarn coming out of the looms is woven into socks. To make more durable socks, the material used is thicker, so it takes longer to make one product. A small staff of 14 people handles everything from manufacturing to inspection and packaging.
Socks that support your feet from everyday wear to running
-Finally, what are the characteristics of the fabric used in the Runtrip × OLENO 2Line Socks, available at the Runtrip Store?
Nomaru : There is a model in OLENO's sports category called the "Run" series, and we use the same materials as that model.
Inoue : The material is designed for running and has excellent moisture absorption, sweat absorption and quick drying properties. It also has compression and arch support functions. We created it to fit people who enjoy running, including daily jogging. It is made to be similar to regular socks, so even people who are running for fun will be able to continue running comfortably. It can be worn with regular shoes, so you can wear it without feeling any stress.
Inoue : Taking into consideration the movements you make while running, the stitching is different for each part. In particular, when running, there is a lot of impact when you land, so the part that comes into contact with the sole has a pile structure to increase cushioning.
-- Listening to Inoue-san and Nomaru-san's stories, I could feel your passion for manufacturing. Thank you for letting us know about the production site and behind the scenes.
Inoue and Nomaru : Thank you very much.
***
OLENO is a sock brand born in the city of socks. Behind the creation of these products are people who are passionate about making items that allow runners and other sports people to move more comfortably.
The Runtrip × OLENO 2Line Socks, created in collaboration with OLENO, are available in various colors at the Runtrip Store. OLENO socks, which are designed with fine details, will support your feet during your daily running.
In addition, the "Ultimate" and "Commodity" series introduced in this article are available for purchase onthe OLENO official website . Please be sure to check them out.
Runtrip × OLENO 2Line Socks
・Color options : Green x Yellow/Green x Green
Price : ¥2,700 (tax included)